Posts tagged vegetable tanned
Making a Mercer Briefcase Part 2.
Hand dyeing and burnishing vegetable tanned leather.

Making a Mercer. Part 2.

Hand dyeing.

I started Wright & Rede with $150.00 I had set aside from my tips waiting tables in a restaurant. In the early days I had to be creative with how I spent that money.

Leather is typically sold by the side (half a cow). On average that’s 20 square feet and can cost between $100-$300. So in the beginning my $150 would buy me one side, which meant one color of leather at a time.

I realized that if I purchased un-dyed leather I could have all the colors I wanted if I dyed it myself. Problem solved. I soon discovered that hand dyeing is an art form in itself. There is a reason large scale tanneries do it with sprayers or in vats.

I’d describe hand dyeing as similar to watercolor painting. I have a rag loaded with wet dye. The first place I set it down on the leather is going to get a big dark blob. Then there will be streaks, blotches, and areas that just don’t take as much dye. It used to drive me nuts. I wanted the uniformity I saw in professionally dyed leather.

It was when I stopped looking for something that looked factory made that I really started to see the potential. I’ve always belived that the best crativity comes from limitations. So I leaned into the inconsistencies.

After eight years of practice I’ve developed a method I’m pleased with. Using heavy dilutions of dye combined with multiple passes, and some confidence with what I’m doing, I am able to produce work that is unique to me. No one will ever be able to apply dye in quite the same way. Much in the same way two painters will paint the same scene differently or that no two finger prints are the same.

As a result each and every piece I make is completely unique. What I once saw as a handicap has become something by which I define my style.

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Meet the Hillard Front Pocket Wallet
The Hillard Front Pocket Wallet

Say hello to my little friend. 




Meet the Hillard Front Pocket Wallet. 



-- HILLARD A roofer; a tiler or slater.



This was the most requested design I don't make. To be honest I refused to make them for a long time. It's a very popular style of wallet but I never felt they worked very well. I've tried them in the past and discovered that once you fill the pockets on the outside with cards it's nearly impossible to get anything in or out of the center pocket. And that's really annoying.

 The answer turned out to be a simple redesign. One side of the wallet is left open halfway down the side. This allows for the wallet to expand while still leaving the center pocket accessible.

The divided seam for easy access.

The real test was seeing if that would make the center loose enough that things could fall out. I ran a test by leaving the exterior pockets empty, placing a single business card inside, turning it upside-down, and shaking the hopes and dreams out of it. Worked like a charm.

The fully stitched side held the card in place regardless of what I subjected it to. The result is a super slim wallet with easily accessible slots for cards and cash that fits perfectly in a front pocket (or sure a back pocket, suit jacket pocket, loose in a tote if you want to be a rebel). 

Why call it the Hillard? If you turn it upside-down I think the pockets look like roof shingles. There is a method to my madness.